…the need of quiet, the need of air, and I believe the sight of sky and of things growing, seem human needs, common to all men.
~ Octavia Hill, National Trust Founder
Woke up to the clopping of the horses beneath us (the airbnb was above the stables). It was such a beautiful day in such beautiful surroundings, I couldn’t complain.
One of the places I had most wanted to visit on this trip was Highclere Castle (aka Downton Abbey), but tour tickets had sold out well in advance. On this particular morning, I figured—we’re near it, let’s just take our chances and see if we can at least walk around the garden. So we packed up and headed that way.
Listen, I am grateful for Google Maps. And the ability to download offline maps since I didn’t have service 90% of the time. But it usually took a good half mile of driving before it registered where I actually was. 😅
I drove slowly down the long driveway, hoping it would know where I was before I reached the main road. It did not. I was sure the castle was to the right, so I turned right. It was not. After a minute, it started showing live directions. Since I had turned the wrong way, it rerouted me down a breathtaking backroad. A fortunate mistake indeed.
We drove past several fields and farms and paused at this clearing where the sun shone through the rolling clouds, casting fast-moving shadows. I put on “Fields of Gold” (Ellie Goulding’s version) to set the mood.
We made it onto the Highclere Castle estate, but as we neared the home, someone ever so kindly turned us away. I asked if there were public footpaths nearby. Of the options given, we decided to hike up Beacon Hill. Ended up being a great choice. An Iron Age hillfort offering incredible 360 views of fields and woods that couldn’t fully be captured on camera. The continual breeze felt cooling and refreshing on our skin.
The first photo is deceiving—you can’t tell how very steep the grade is here. In the second photo, you can see “Downton Abbey”! The manicured lawns in the third photo belong to Highclere Stud. We were told they provide the king’s horses (and the king’s men? 🤷♀️).
On top of Beacon Hill lies the tomb of George Herbert, the fifth Earl of Carnarvon. His family owned (and still owns) Highclere Castle. He moved to Egypt and is the person who funded Howard Carter’s excavation of King Tut’s tomb! If you tour the castle, the downstairs exhibits are all about Egypt. Cool beans.
After getting back down to our car, we left for Stourhead. On the way, we stopped for “fresh strawberries in layby” as the signs beckoned. I totally thought Layby was a town pronounced lAY-bee until l realized it was just a highway pullout or “lay by”. 😂
After parking, I realized I didn’t have any cash on me. I asked Gary, the seller, if he took card. As expected, he didn’t. But he added, “I’ll tell you what. Next time you drive by a church, stop inside and donate £2, will ya? I don’t keep the money anyway, because I don’t need it. It all goes to charity. Cancer. I decided to do this because I’ve lost four of my five sisters to cancer. And me mum too. I’ve been able to raise £4500 already.”
He showed us pictures of his grandchildren on his old flip phone. Told us that after forty three years of being together, he and his lady finally decided to get married. They had 300 people there. He was very proud of that last fact. Sweetest man. Sweetest strawberries. (And I did indeed donate some money at the next church I went to.)
The route to Stourhead passed right by Stonehenge. It was not a top priority for either of us, but we thought we’d scope the situation once we got there. There was a ton of traffic and it would take too long to even park so we just did a drive by. Which was all I needed. My only note is that the rocks were a lot larger in person than I thought they would be.
Before long, we arrived at Stourhead, which belongs to the National Trust. This place was stunning. My favorite spot is the featured photo at the top of this page. The garden was incredibly romantic. Don’t be fooled by the word “garden,” which may sound quaint. It is 2,650 acres large.
We first walked to the house to tour its impressive rooms and learn bits of history from the guides. They were very knowledgeable. One of them lived in Michigan for years!
My favorite room was the library.
This fancy structure below on display in the red room is called The Pope’s Cabinet. Find out what it’s made of here (an impressive list!). Henry “The Magnificent” Hoare brought it back to his Stourhead home from, I believe, Italy in the 1740s. These curiosities were very popular at that time and were nothing but a way to show off how much money you had. They had drawers and secret compartments (this one has a whopping 125!). Before hosting a large party at your home, you would hide trinkets inside it. And after dinner, you’d have everyone gather round and let them find the compartments and enclosed prizes.
After the house tour, we spent a couple hours walking the garden and peeking inthe bookstore. I could’ve easily spent another full day there. Have I mentioned the property was stunning? 😊 Rich history. Beautiful architecture, largely influenced by what Henry witnessed in Italy. It is said that the English landscape garden started here at Stourhead. I believe it.
Does this Temple of Apollo look familiar to you?
We left against our will as the gates closed and headed to Wareham. On the way, we passed through a cute little town called Shaftesbury. Many thatched rooves. This street there is often cited online as one of the most beautiful streets in England.
The doors in this town were very short and most were adorned with a unique knocker. It was fun to see all the different kinds.
We arrived in Wareham where we stayed for the night. What an adorable village. Everything closed at five so we didn’t get to go into any shops, but walking the streets was fun.
We had Thai food for dinner (delicious tom kha gai), ate sticky toffee pudding, and got local recommendations from the law student (daughter of the immigrant owner) and footballer (her boyfriend) who run the restaurant.
This hotel is so stinking cute. It’s called The Bear and each room is themed after a famous bear. We were told by the receptionist that it used to be a gross hotel, but someone bought it and put a lot of time and care and money into it…just before covid hit. Gratefully, word has gotten out about it. We were told it has been on several TV shows in the UK and has gained traction. We stayed in the Pooh Bear room. Pooh Bear illustrations and quotes on the wall (tastefully done, not gaudy). Lamp shades and cupboard pulls had bees on them.
I sat on the window seat to journal and found this wooden block on the seat and wondered out loud what it was for and why it was attached to a secured rope. Then I tried to open the springless window to welcome in some fresh, cool air. Success! But how to keep it open? Ah yes, the block! I wedged the block into the opening and it fell out of the window on my first try. Ah yes, the rope! Somebody smart put this together ;)
I looked out at the sleepy, quintessentially-England village and heard the bells from that tower to the left ring. 10:00 pm. So I took a good soak in this dream of a bathtub and then hit the hay. Next up: the Jurassic coast!!
